The year is 2019, the month – September, the place – London. And no, we are not going to tell you about the kids of the royal family nor about Brexit and even less so about the world-renowned sights of the British capital. We are going to talk about dreams! The ones that were born and those that came true during London Fashion Week. We put them all together – the dreams in several fairy tales about curls and colours, about brave women and men who have known the future and about a lot of unfamiliarity in the familiar… Three collections, three designers, three different points of view – we give you the best of a fashion week. The London one!
Victoria Beckham – where curls meet functionality
One of the first designers who presented their collection during London Fashion Week was Victoria Beckham. From what we saw, we can draw the conclusion that, in her view, the spring is feminine and romantic, it goes for bold colours, voluminous silhouettes and checked patterns for added splendour – all of them easily recognisable for Mrs Beckham’s signature style. The new collection takes a look at the aesthetics of the 1970s and it is centred around the designer’s favourite garment – the dress. All highlights fall namely on dresses, which, in the next season, will have a lot of volume and go down to the ankle. Thanks to the veils and the curls! Those same ones that dance around the female silhouette with every move and simultaneously add plenty of tenderness and style. As for the colours, the palette of the designs is rich and comprises both many neutral earth colours as well as bold experiments with purple, pink, yellow and green. Simply a collection that has the aroma of cinnamon and the colour of fresh lemons, or to put it in other words, we saw an interesting and well-balanced mixture of airiness and rigour. And all this suits its creator quite well – a bold and direct, but also beautiful and tender woman! Not by chance at all, the brand is named after a woman and is led by a woman, because that’s exactly what it exudes – feminine power. We can only celebrate the fact that 10 year ago Victoria Beckham decided to become a part of the fashion industry… And only make it richer!
Burberry – one evolution embracing everything
When Riccardo Tisci became the creative director of Burberry, we, the admirers of the fashion house with the iconic trench coat, started asking ourselves, “Will he manage to find the right way to the brand’s archives, without changing them fundamentally?” Now, after three seasons during which the Italian has been heading Burberry there is not even a shadow of a doubt that he is doing more than successfully and what is even more, it is quite obvious that he feels at home.
The new spring/summer 2020 collection is a wonderful personification of his abilities –his masterly sense of the silhouette, which he had the opportunity to develop with Givenchy, his European instinct for unadulterated sophistication and, last but not least, his affinity for materials and clothes’ structures. And a dose of Italian style and calmness, of course, because Tisci dared leave a piece of himself and his roots in the heritage of the iconic brand. And we can see this particularly well in his new collection, especially in the face of the perfect cuts of the suits.
Complementing this Italian inspiration is also the Victorian theme, which has been incorporated in an impeccable manner. That same one that has been pivotal to Burberry since the very foundation of the brand by Thomas Burberry and that is now being presented in a lot of volume and curls! Yes, next spring is going to be voluminous! Oh, and lace, we missed the lace! Lace seen through a contemporary prism, even through several of them, because now it is not merely some support, but it plays a leading and a memorable role – that of being the highlight. The perfect highlight! Naturally, the designer has also taken into consideration the fact that the British brand is a reflection of the British spirit. There was the signature Burberry checkedbeige pattern, and there was the iconic trench coat, but… they were different. They were contemporary! Because the whole collection is a new rendition of well-known story coming right on time. “Evolution” – this is what Burberry’s new fashion magic is called and it has been inspired by the past and dedicated to the future. An evolution of the otherwise well-known Burberry style, because it is not the archives, but rather Riccardo Tisci himself who leads the fashion house ahead.
Erdem is telling us tales of the future
From everything seen so far, we can draw several conclusions: 1. Next season lengths are going down to the ankle. 2. Colours are going to be bold and unusual. 3. The waistline is going to disappear and this is not bad at all. Quite expectedly, almost everything presented at London Fashion Week had at least one of these features, but there was also a collection that we can easily call 3-in-1 – the one by Erdem. In his spring/summer 2020 collection, Erdem Moralioglu used all the above-mentioned trends in one line and the result, as one might suggest, is more than splendid. The Canadian, who is famous for being one of the best biographical story-tellers through his shows, was this time inspired by the life of renowned photographer Tina Modotti. Born in Italy, known as a silent-film actress and a photographer travelling in Mexico when facing her untimely death in suspicious circumstances – this is the most synthesised account of the biography of Erdem’s muse. Her story, told in designs and silhouettes, however, looks unsurpassed. Erdem describes Modotti as “a romantic and revolutionary woman of principles” and transforms his whole show into a retrospection of her life. In the spring/summer collection of the designer, we apparently find a lot of similarities with Tina Modotti’s photographs(after all, this is why she became his muse): there are voluminous silhouettes, there are ankle lengths, there are beautiful fringed scarves, masterfully embroidered with roses and there are hats… many hats. And in the centre, just like with almost all other collections of the designer, there stands the dress. Or many dresses, to be exact! Erdem has created something that forcefully takes us back to the past, but in fact lets us live in the future. The future that has a cardamom colour, floral sophistication and unparalleled boldness. We love it!
An interesting type of spring lies ahead of us. We will be wearing ankle-length dresses while following our dreams, which know no limit. We will be surrounding ourselves in the tenderness of curls while they will in fact be giving us the power to change the world. And yes, we will be changing it, because our bright future is promising bright colours! We can’t even wait anymore…
Text: Annie Georgieva