After the fashion world visited the two English-speaking capitals as part of the marathon called the Fashion Capitals of the World, it was time to head to epicentre of fashion elements – Milan. And there, with the typical Italian calmness and love for life, it was welcomed by Prada. Unadulterated, elegant, full of details and without any need for odes of praise. A collection that wears no masks and speaks for itself at first sight, and Miuccia, who has the desire, will and strength to change the world, and not just the fashion one. More on the new Prada spring/summer 2020 collection and the strong messages lying in its foundation is what you are going to find in the following lines.
It is an undoubted fact that at the centre of success of a fashion show are the clothes to be presented. The venue, however, is the next significant thing that shouldn’t be underestimated, because unless it is properly chosen and decorated, it could ruin even the best collection. Fortunately, with Miuccia Prada this was out of the question as the space was in complete unison with the designer’s ideas. The location was Fondazione Prada – quite far away from the typical central places chosen for fashion shows, but Prada-style enough to make it worth it. Still, it doesn’t sound quite familiar, does it? Well, imagine a place like an industrial warehouse dominated by massive columns covered in golden foil, complemented by lemon-yellow and brick-red tiles on the floor. Different? Yes, it was very different from everything that we are used to seeing during Fashion Weeks. It wasn’t, however, lacking in natural daylight and its own particular dose of glamour and that’s why we admit it was the perfect background to the collection, despite being a bit odd.
Speaking of the collection, it was a game of possibilities. Literally! We saw suits with classic cuts, tight skirts, double-breasted jackets, plenty of sweaters, as well as floaty multi-layered dresses – all of them participating in all sorts of combinations and dancing in the company of many patterns. Many! And also in the company of the slight, but still noticeable, hint of the 1970s. But why slight? Well, because where Miuccia Prada puts her signature no age, no matter how inspirational, can compete with her recognisable style. So, this was Prada with a hint of nostalgia.
A part of this same fashion signature is the well-known fact that the beauty of everything bearing the Prada label lies in the details and this is why in the new collection, quite expectedly, they played a major role. We saw a lot of combinations of different textures – macramé, velvet, knitwear, satin, as well as plenty of embroidery and sequin decorations. There was also no way for us not to notice one particular motif – the fern pattern, which was seen in many different interpretations and cosily nestled almost everywhere. As far as accessories are concerned, we found a new trend that will (probably) rule over Instagram in the following year – sea shells. Yes, we know that even this year they were more than trendy, but the next one, they will reign supreme.
We must admit that we still find the trend with the hats quite illogical and that a part of the outfits was rather controversial (then again, we see this with most designers nowadays), but in this Prada show there was something stronger and more different. There was a message! A message without conceptual tricks, one expressed through outfits that beckon us to be brave. So brave that we wear our beach bag with a thick sweater or we take it to the office paired with an elegant suit. Yes, it is quite possible and even Miuccia Prada invites us to do so with the unequivocal, “The person is more important than the clothes.” And before you are misled to believe that this is yet another marketing strategy that different brands are trying to make use of – no, it definitely isn’t. The Prada spring/summer 2020 collection is the exact opposite of what has come to be known as fast fashion – a trend which is connected to the fast-paced changes in the clothes that different brands offer on the market. Realising that the production of textiles and clothes is one of the major factors that have a detrimental effect on the environment, Miuccia Prada’s aim is to introduce a type of style that will look fashionable long enough thanks to designs that strive to become timeless. A strong move, undoubtedly!
Whether the Prada clothes from this very collection will make it through time is a situation that we will be ready to discuss at least 10 years from now. No, it won’t be late then, because there is something much more important than the fact that you are going to wear a Prada shirt (or any other designer shirt) a certain number of times, and this exactly is the message. The message that if we find several sea shells on the beach and wear them with style, then we can call them pearls, because the shine comes from within. And no, we are not what we wear, but we wear what we are. It is worth wearing clothes that are sustainable in time. It is worth wearing clothes that we can always make memories with. It is worth investing in the future of the environment no matter what fashion house label it bears. And Prada deserves our admirations even for the mere fact that she showed us how the future of the planet is to be prioritised over the future of the fashion industry! In the spring of 2020, Prada is going to be the inspiration… for life!
Text: Annie Georgieva