There is hardly any other collection anticipated more than the one by Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld’s creations always require a special type of attention, a particular outlook and a moment of contemplation. In order to admire the overall concept, the whole idea and its perfect deviations in all the lines that create the silhouettes of the show. From the décor – again Grand Palais, but this year inviting us to the sunrays of the French Riviera– to the very last swish of eyeliner on the models.
Kaia Gerber, Mr. Lagerfeld’s top favourite for the past shows, was also part of the seemingly endless and exceptionally varied catwalk. A beautiful villa in typical French style, a blue swimming pool and a lot of greenery were only parts of the set that took the guests to another world.
If we could somehow divide the collection up in our minds, then we would definitely go by style, but also by colour. The overall mood seems appropriate to us for a glamorous pool party, brimming with a lot of high heels, tulle, embroidery and flowers. The main colour palettes range between candy (mint, pink and baby blue) to black and silver. Heaps of lace, sumptuousness and outfits that we would even say resemble the time of Marie Antoinette or at least remind us of the feeling we get when crossing the doorstep of a Ladurée store.
The collection masterfully takes us back to an era gone-by: the time of endless fun, eternal beauty and infinite Gatsby parties. The hair, make-up and accessories only help bring this retro look back to life. The make-up reminds us of the femme fatale, with strongly defined lips especially created for kissing. The nonchalant flowers in the hair, on the other hand, only seem to be placed there so that they could be lost somewhere in a beautiful garden right in front of the magical palace.
And if there is a designer who can end their show with a special bride’s outfit composed only of a bathing suit, an infinite veil and a pair of sandals (the absolute dream), then this is Karl.
The only thing missing was himself. As usual, he didn’t step out at the end of the show. But his magic took the whole world by storm. As always.
Text: Thea Nikolova