The last few days in Paris seem to have taken us back in a time machine to the golden age of couture shows: 1947-1957. The time when high fashion finds its way among the other arts. The three shows that we are about to discuss today reminded us why fashion attracts more than 700 000 visitors to a museum with one single exhibition and why there is an Oscar for best costume design in the year’s most spectacular productions. Fashion is a triumph of imagination that is going to impress us as long as it exists. And as long as such shows continue to happen:
The royal collection during Couture Week in Paris. Some simply cannot stop admiring half-naked Naomi Campbell at the end of the show. Others (just like us) will keep on having dreams swimming in cascades of tulle, organza and lace for days and even weeks on end. Pierpaolo Piccioli brought Céline Dion to tears. How many designers nowadays can actually be proud of being honoured at their shows by Raf Simons, Giambattista Valli, Christian Louboutin, Clare Waight Keller and Valentino himself? We are talking about a sensation – nothing more, nothing less. Pierpaolo Piccioli showed a symphony of colours and waterfalls of luxury, created by Valentino’s titanic team. We wish we had been there in the front rows, crying with admiration.
Latex and lace – the key elements in Clare Waight Keller’s last collection. The continuation took us through galleries of unexpected cuts and volumes as well as necklines as deep as our souls… Well, fair enough, at least we wish they would have such dimensions. The designer is definitely part of the team that interprets couture in a contemporary way. But also, amongst the very few that win over our hearts with her signature style.
These dresses are worthy of their own castle and a cast to take them out for a walk down its corridors three times a day. Also, there should be balls, soirées, opera shows and whatever else they require so that they can shine properly in front of the public. We are sure that the lengths of fabric that were needed to turn each sketch into reality can prove this in frightening numbers. As well as the hours of hand work that they absorbed before meeting the spotlights of their own private premiere. 14 years of history are plenty for Giambattista Valli to become a cult of his own and to nestle comfortably not only in fashion textbooks, but also in our hearts.
Text: Alexandra Tosheva